30 Jan

We completed the Timber Trail today. It took us about the same time as yesterday - 7 hours. It was a bit easier though. We started early and it was quite cool. We were in the bush all the way.
At times we rode along an old logging tram line. The cuttings were deeply shadowed,rocks green with moss,and great ferns arching overhead. It was like being in a green tunnel.  Not as dark as a tunnel though. The one we went through on the Ongarue Spiral was very dark.
Some places were very muddy. My be lay down in the mud but I managed to stay upright. I certainly didn't want a mud bath.

Once we came out of the bush it was very hot.  The last 9 or 10 km was in the open along beside the river. The pines were being clear felled and the air smelt resinous. It wasn't as nice riding through the blackberry as it was through the toitoi.
We were very glad to get to the car park.
Now we are back camping in Taumarunui, probably for a couple of nights. I need a rest. I am covered in scratches and bruises.

28 Jan

Today we drove to Taumarunui. Tomorrow we catch a shuttle from Ongarue to Pureora to the start of the Timber Trail.
Today we saw the most beautiful gardens at Tapuwae. It is the lady's life work and is magnificent.  I would love to see it in Spring when it would be ablaze with colour from the rhododendrons and magnolias.  There are so many places to stop and while away an hour or two reading a book but she is always busy maintaining the garden.
We also walked in to see the largest totara in the world. It was a pleasantly shaded walk. A bit hard to get a photo. It is not cleared around it like Tane Mahuta. Estimated age between 1750 and 1850 years.
We popped into Pureora for a look and found old tractors preserved from old logging days.

Tonight we had dinner with Bruce Hopkins,who is walking the Te Araroa Trail, taking his father and brother home to Stewart Island, and raising money for grandparents raising grandchildren.   

There are several young people biking around NZ. Some are also following the Tour Aotearoa trail and others are making it up as they go. Either way, we are all enjoying it most of the time. 

26 Jan

We have had 4 nights rest,2 with Rose and Ken and 2 with Stuart in Minginui. And thank you Michael for checking our bikes and making the necessary adjustments.
I started again from where we left off at the junction of Highway 1 and Horohoro Road. After a few kilometers I was able to turn onto the Waikato River trail. Some went through bush and was lovely.  Some went beside the road and was narrow and much steeper than the sealed road. I stopped to let a running man and his two cycling children pass and when I started again my foot slipped in the gravel and I and the bike tumbled into the ditch. No great damage.
It was very hot and I did not stand up to it very well. Ron was waiting for me in Arapuni and we had lunch and then came to the Jim Barnett Reserve at Waotu to camp. This is a lovely spot. A little patch of replanted native bush, trees are named,there are toilets, lots of birdie.  Generally very pleasant.
We heated the solar showers and showered au naturelle.
In the evening the thunder rolled around us as we did battle with the insects trapped on the tent. There was a shower which drove off a group of aspiring campers so we have the place to ourselves again. The thunder got closer and it rained again but not for long.

Te Aroha to Highway 1.

A quiet ride today on sealed roads. We stopped in at the Frith Tower Museum on the outskirts of Matamata.  We then drove through Matamata and I started again on the other side. We are now over 1/4 of the way to Wellington
We are taking a few days off now to go and visit Rose and then out to Minginui.
I had to take a photo of the sunflowers. When we were in France I wanted to take photos of the fields of flowers but the bus went too fast. So today was my chance.

Kopu to Te Aroha

After Ron picked me up in Kopu we went to Coromandel and then over to the western coast. The map said there was a camp at Otipu and we followed a steep and winding road to get there and there was no place to camp. So out we came again and continued to Whitianga for the night. This was a lovely little camp, not as well equipped as Miranda Springs, but nice and quiet and clean.
This morning we continued our tour right back to Thames where we got coffee at the Wharf Bar and Restaurant.
Then I got back on the bike and met Ron 20 km on at the Convenient Cow for a cuppa. It was such pleasant biking I decided that Te Aroha was possible. Ron went ahead and got the accommodation and I biked the next 30 km. I stopped to read an information board and somehow managed to put a little bit much pressure on, I think, a bumble bee. Luckily it stung my arm. Equally luckily it did not swell and the stinging stopped after I had liberally smeared antihistamine cream all over it a couple of times. I wish the mossie bites would stop itching as quickly.

It was lovely to be picked up at the station and then to luxuriate in the pool. Not the hot pool but a lovely cool,refreshing pool. Followed by a soak in a little hot pool.

Kawakawa Bay to Miranda Springs

The morning has started grey and damp but it is supposed to clear.
It stayed grey and damp but humid as I climbed out of Kawakawa Bay.  I saw a lay by and thought I would like a rest but someone had dumped their rubbish including fishheads and ashes down the bank and into the stream. More than once I would have to say. It looked like the tip face at the dump.
As I continued up there were Cockrell crowing a challenge to each other. One behind me and another ahead. It turned out to be 4 ahead. As I rounded a corner there was a lovely bench seat,a bar for the bike, with the cockerels on it, and a stone monument. When I got closer I saw that all had been defaced.  I have no idea what the monument was, the seat wax covered with hate slogans,and down the bank was another dump.

I cannot understand why people do this. 

Once over the hills it was flat all the way. We stopped at the Pink Shop in Kaiaua for a pie and coffee.  I stopped again at the bird sanctuary. And then it was Miranda Park.

All along the coast was evidence of the storm. There were many washouts and the rail trail was closed. It was probably faster on the road anyway. 

The day has cleared and is hot and sunny. The fennel along the roadside has a glorious smell in the heat.  

Helensville to Kawakawa Bay.

We left about 9 am and visited Belinda in Massey. This lovely lady had made fresh muffins for morning tea AND yummy Anzac biscuits to take with us. 

However as we get to the southern outskirts I had a sudden vision disturbance that signals migraine. We stopped so I could find my medication and then continued.  I was very glad that Ron was driving as my peripheral vision to the left and downwards had gone and traffic coming towards us appeared to be coming directly head on.

When we got to Maraetai we had fish and chips for lunch. We looked for a campsite but the regional parks are for self contained vehicles only.
It was a pretty drive from there to Kawakawa Bay in the rain. We went right to the end of the road to get to a camping ground, only to discover there was a further half a kilometer walk. In the rain. With all our gear. I don't think so.
So back we came to the Beachcomber Motel in Kawakawa Bay.  That's the budget for the week shot.
But it is very wet, although quite warm. Tomorrow I will carry on biking. A few hills early on and then flat.
There are signs that the storm a fortnight ago caused quite a lot of damage along this coast. 
I am amazed that there are no camping grounds.  I would have thought that since it is so close to Auckland and so pretty and accessible there would have been heaps of places.

Helensville. 17 Jan

A lovely restful day with Diane. There is a great view from her front door. It doesn't feel as if you are in town at all.
It was great to meet Rebecca. I haven't seen her for many years and she has grown into a lovely young woman.
Besides resting and repacking the car we went to the hot pools at Parakai for a swim and a soak in the evening.  We slept well.
Even on a rest day there needs to be some sort of exercise.

Trounson to Dargaville

Left early today, farewell ed by the lovely chatterers.  It was threatening rain but the wind started behind us and we made quite good time. A young cyclist who left camp shortly after us powered by and left us puffing in his wake. The wind did become very swirly as we continued coming at us from all directions.  It also strengthened, at some points blowing me off course. Luckily there was nothing passing at the time. Periodically there was the rich,fruity smell of silage,and the less pleasant odour from cows.
We were in Dargaville in time for lunch,delicious from Blah Blah Blah. We decorated their frontage for quite some time.
The boat to take us from Pouto Point to Parakai had broken down and the company was going to pick us up and drive us to Helensville.  So instead we rang Diane and she brought our car over and collected us.
We have decided that we will simply drive through Auckland and pick the trail up again on the other side.  Traffic has been fairly considerate but the thought of Auckland traffic is daunting. 
We are going to stay here in Helensville another day and catch up on washing  and repack the car.

Waipoua to Trounson Kauri Park

It was a later start today. We had breakfast at the cafe. Bacon and eggs beats porridge hands down. Then it was off out to the road and 5 km uphill.  I rode all the way but did have to stop for a breather a couple of times.
We turned off on the downhill to a gravel road through the tiny settlement of Donnelly's Crossing and carried on past the Kauri Park to the DOC camp.  A camp with hot showers and a good kitchen. We are told that the chances of seeing kiwi are quite high if we can stay up late enough.
I have finished my third book and have nothing to read today. So I went for a walk in the Kauri Park.  There are some very big trees and lots of kauri.
We got a history lesson from one of the DOC staff on the origins of Nga Puhi and Tuhoe. And geological history. And early settler history. He had a long lunch break.
Tonight there are two delightful little Danish girls in the tent next to us. They have provided entertainment for a couple of hours.

Opononi to Waipoua Forest Park.

We were away by 8 am and hit the first hills soon after Omapere which was a pretty little village. We got to Waimanalo in good time and stopped for coffee. We were away from there by 11 and then we hit the hill. 5 km up all the way.  It took me 3 hours to get to the top but the downhill was pretty good.  We popped into pay our respects to Tane Mahuta and then carried on up the last hill of the day. And then it was downhill all the way to Waipoua. It wasn't the fastest descent as it started to rain and the road looked very slippery.  The raindrops hit my face like needles. The smell of the newly wet bush was rich and warm.  The  cafe and camp are quite a way off the road. But that's OK because for $25 each we have a self contained cabin with a double bed,  armchairs,kitchenette, close access to showers and toilets. In fact, all we could wish for. It is even garlanded with fairy lights.

Broadwood to Opononi

Tried an earlier start but it was still intensely hot. And more hills. It was a relief to get to Kohukohu and stop for coffee and then on to the ferry.  We had a short wait and a smooth crossing. An ice cream under a tree by the shore and a chat with a local and then it was on the road again. We stayed at the campground  $20 each for a tents it, a very long walk to the toilet, no cutlery or crockery available in the kitchen. If we hadn't been desperate  we would have continued. After we set up the tent we went back to the township for fish and chips. Tonight we slept with the tent open except for the mosquito netting and welcomed the slight breeze.

Ahipara to Broadwood

We left early to try to beat the heat. Didn't work. As we headed up the first steep rise towards the Herekino Forest an English man caught up with me. He was relieved to see that someone else was walking. We all rested at the top, took photos and exchanged information.  He was heading for Queenstown and had 32 days to get there. I got down the hill before him but he easily passed us. There was a great sense of relief when we got over the fourth hill and knew that Broadwood was near. We stayed at the A&P Showgrounds.  Great value. $6 for the tents it, a cess to water and toilets,a place to leave our stuff overnight,and directions to a lovely swimming hole, which was as good as a shower. A possum woke us in the night chittering away and early morning broke with the sound of a squawking bird.

Utea Park to Ahipara

It was easier riding today,although we hit patches of sticky sand at times. It's a bit like biking gradually uphill. As soon as we stop pedaling the speed drops right off so there is no free wheeling. The beach at the southern end is much shelled.  There are shells of all colours- red,orange, brown, blue,  matte cream and pearlescent pinks and creams. And always the deep plum jellyfish. I wondered how I would find a different photo when everything looked the same for mile upon mile and then we came across this stunning contraption.

How welcome was that coffee! We set off after it at a  much better speed for a while. We were very glad to get to Ahipara in time for lunch and intend to stay two nights to have a recovery day.

That doorstep is a whale vertebrae. The lovely man who runs the place is moving to Westport so here is an opportunity for somebody.

The Bluff to Utea Park.

Another 30 km down the beach. We were not as shattered as yesterday but we were still pleased to meet Tania and get a cabin here. Oh the luxury of a hot shower and a soft bed! It is a busy campsite and very cosmopolitan with people from the Yukon,Germany, England,all staying here. Tania made a delicious smoothie,cold and refreshing. The beach is not very exciting really. Just relentless.  We have 30 km to go tomorrow and then we will need a rest day.
There are interesting jellyfish strewn along the beach.  Some look like flowers. Some are quite hard.
I kept applying sunscreen today and don't think I have got any worse but have stayed out of the sun since we finished riding.  I  would have liked a swim but would have had to expose even more  flesh to the sun.

Te Reinga to Waitiki Landing.

Richard and Sharon drove us to Te Reinga where we took an obligatory photo of the lighthouse---from a distance. I had the greatest difficulty in controlling myself when I heard an English man telling his child that when the first ships came to NZ the lighthouse showed them where to go. We left before Sharon and Richard, luckily, as we had a mild panic when I thought I had left the wallet in the car. We had to wave them down and say goodbye again.  There were a couple of long drags uphill and some wonderful downhills. The views from the road were rnchanting.
The camp at Waitiki was adequate but we were warned repeatedly about the vicious mosses.  I do have a couple of bites but not too bad.

Waitiki Landing to The Bluff

Today started with a long uphill to the Te Paki Stream turnoff. Then a little more rolling on the gravel and down to the stream. A highlight was seeing a sow and a dozen little piglets gazing through the fence. We later found that her name was Molly. A Dutch motor cyclist was also at the stream wondering if he was in the right place.  We left him and proceeded past the dunes. He flew past us much later.  In places the water was up to our axles and the sand was very sucky.  Sometimes it was get off and slip,slide and push. There was a head wind on the beach and it was just plain hard work. We had left early and forgotten to put on sunscreen and then couldn't find it so we plowed on. We had decided to take a rest and then Ron found a campsite so there we stayed. I discovered that I had a good dose of sun on my thighs. Oddly enough the lower legs are not burned at all. My upper arms are red too.
At the campsite a vehicle pulled up and a lovely gentleman asked if we would like a cold beer. He stayed and yarned through that bottle and the next. That's how we know the pig was Molly.

It's glad I am

It's glad I am that we are not out in this weather. The sea is regular and hypnotic but the wind in the trees is random and worrisome. All night the wind blustered and bothered. The shade sail snapped and flapped. Richard and I took it down this morning. The rain is sheeting across the valley and I fear it is driving into the garage where our gear is stored. Hopefully it will be safe. At least the power is still on here.
Ron is sitting here wrapped in his down jacket (it is 20 degrees) and worrying about what he has not brought with him. He thinks he may be getting sick but I think it  is just worry. Enforced idleness allows the mind to range into laces where it should not go. We have all we need, and although we will be alone until we reach Helensville and the car, there are towns all along the way. We will manage.

Update Jan 4

We left Bulls in the sunshine and travelled to Taranaki via the coastal route. The nearer we got to the mountain the heavier the overcast. There were glimpses of a dark sea, but none of the mountain, though we did see the flank curving upwards. We stopped with Cary and Russell in New Plymouth. Cary took us to the waterfront where sculptors were busy with giant boulders, creating masterpieces, the Govett-Brewster Gallery where we were dazzled by the exterior and found a golden glitter tree,  Pukekura Park, what a treasure this is, and then to the iconic bridge which frames a view of Taranaki.

     

The following day we continued north. It was a misty, moisty morning and was quite magical travelling through the gorges north of New Plymouth. Mist wreated the bush but tthe rain was usually light.

We ran out of the rain as we entered the Waikato and had lunch with Marion and Alan in Kihikihi, and then on to Sharon and Richard near Kaikohe. Here we have stayed to sort our stuff. They will take us to the Cape and then deliver our car to Helensville while we ride. 

Yesterday's skies were stunning. Today has been a gentle rain all day. The ground is soaking it up. I am glad that we are not riding today. This is the weather bomb that was forecast but it is not too bad here in Mataraua.